Oman has long captivated the attention of some of the world’s most innovative perfumers, serving as a vibrant muse for treasured fragrances. As we step into 2025, the growing interest in Oman is set to flourish even further, solidifying the country’s role as a pivotal force in the fragrance renaissance.
The local perfumery scene is nothing short of fascinating, characterised by its diverse landscapes. From the misty gardens of Jabal Akhdar in winter to the stark, sunbaked expanses of Dhofar during the summer heat, and the bustling, historically rich souqs, Oman offers abundant inspiration. Even smaller artisanal perfumers are beginning to embrace the uniqueness of their environment, taking pride in its distinctive offerings.
In one of Oman’s most prestigious perfume manufacturing houses, a remarkable revival is underway. A nearly forgotten perfumery process, once deemed too expensive and difficult to control, is now being reimagined. Renaud Salmon, the Chief Creative Officer of Amouage, renowned for his imaginative approach to perfumery, is shaping a new narrative for fragrances inspired by Oman. Under his leadership, four of the world’s most celebrated perfumers, each known for their distinct interpretations of scent, have frequented Oman. They draw inspiration not only from the enchanting landscapes but also from the depths of their creativity, producing fragrances that resonate with both tradition and contemporary sensibilities.
At the launch of The Essences Collection in Amouage’s flagship boutique at the Mall of Oman, Salmon articulates his commitment to perfection through a meticulous process he developed: a double infusion technique that seamlessly blends the traditional with the modern. This intricate method involves infusing pure ingredients with alcohol, carefully monitored to create a flavour profile that embodies the very soul of Oman. Although the process is costly and time-consuming, it is a hallmark of Amouage’s dedication to quality. Salmon emphasises the importance of selecting the finest ingredients, such as aged sandalwood sourced from Australia, and ageing them in specially toasted oak barrels. This toasting not only enhances aromatic properties but adds complexity and depth to the final product. "I monitor and smell every two weeks,” he notes, highlighting his hands-on approach that intertwines artistry with science.
“The Essence Collection is not merely a scent but a narrative. I wanted to explore the temporal dimensions of fragrance — the past, present, and future — allowing each perfume to reflect its uniqueness.” Salmon fosters creativity by inviting master perfumers to experiment with formulations, resulting in fragrances that resonate with artistry and authenticity. Each piece reflects the dedication of artisans committed to upholding the highest standards, ensuring every bottle encapsulates the magic of Oman.
During their visit to Oman, Oman Observer had exclusive interviews with each perfumer to uncover why this country is an alluring destination for their craft.
The Perfect Canvas for Reasons
Bertrand Duchaufour, known for his prolific and iconoclastic style, has a longstanding relationship with Oman. While he has worked on previous projects related to the country, his recent visit marked a significant personal milestone. Crafting his latest masterpiece with deep respect for Oman’s aromatic heritage, each note resonates with the spirit of the land — a fragrant love letter encapsulating Oman’s profound beauty.
“Oman provides the perfect canvas for this journey,” he shares. At the heart of his new fragrance lies a tribute to sandalwood, emblematic of Oman’s cultural and aromatic heritage. The local artisans, along with their age-old techniques, infuse authenticity into Duchaufour’s work, bridging the past with the present. "This is an homage to a beautiful raw material," he explains. His vision to showcase sandalwood within a complex accord creates a vibrant interplay of spices and citrus that both juxtaposes and complements the rich, warm base notes.
Duchaufour’s unique approach to infusion combines traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation. “This is my first time working with maceration in such a pronounced way,” he reveals. Each step, from selecting the finest sandalwood to infusing it for six months, reflects meticulous endeavour, enhanced by oak barrel ageing. Finding the delicate balance of crafting a fragrance also involves knowing when to stop adding ingredients, a skill he considers an art in itself.
“Vibration was the key word for this fragrance,” he states. It was essential to maintain a harmonious dialogue between the raw materials and infusion process, allowing sandalwood’s essence to shine through and not overpower complementary notes of citrus, spices, cardamom, and pink pepper. As he reflects on his creation, Duchaufour hopes it encapsulates the essence of Oman, aiming to evoke the warmth of its vast deserts and rich history through a scent that is bold yet smooth, shocking yet calming.
Unique Allure Captured in Outlands
Cécile Zaroukian is renowned not just for her mastery of scent but also for the passion embedded in each creation. Her innovative approach has woven a narrative that blends tradition with modernity, reflective of her deep appreciation for Oman’s rich heritage in perfumery. Her latest fragrance, Outlands, is a tapestry of such influences.
“Oman has a unique allure,” she says, her eyes sparkling as she describes a land steeped in the history of frankincense and myrrh. “It’s a place where the very air is infused with history. Each note I incorporate tells a story that honours that legacy.”
Cécile’s creativity thrives on the adrenaline of exploration. “For this fragrance, we started with a clear vision—an amber-y perfume that balances warmth and mystery,” she explains. The meticulous process begins with selecting ingredients like the prized ambergris, sourced directly from Oman’s coastline. “This element is rare and beautiful; it embodies the essence of the sea and echoes the spirit of the region.”
Infusion plays a pivotal role in Cécile’s craft, allowing her to extract deeper, more complex notes. By understanding how each ingredient interacts, she enriches the fragrance’s character. “It’s like a dialogue between the elements,” she reflects, “where each ingredient’s voice must harmonise with the others.”
In collaboration with Renaud Salmon, Cécile values the synergy and creative flow of their partnership. “The ideas flow freely, and we challenge each other. Sometimes we disagree," she laughs, “but those moments of tension often lead to the most remarkable breakthroughs.” Through countless iterations, they balance vibrant citrus notes with the warming depths of amber, ensuring the scent resonates with its intended identity.
As a storyteller, Cécile seeks continuous growth through exploration and experimentation. Her latest creation also reinterprets patchouli—often misunderstood in modern perfumery. “Many perceive it as dated, but when combined with an amber accord, it becomes something entirely new, deeper, and richer,” she describes. Her goal transcends merely creating a scent; it is about rejuvenating a classic while paying homage to the past.
Cécile’s artistry underscores the importance of the cultural context of ingredients. With Oman as her muse, she successfully weaves a narrative that transcends the act of fragrance creation. Each spritz transports wearers to a world where tradition meets innovation, inviting them to embark on their own sensory journey.
Lustre Showcases Harmonization of Thoughtful Artistry
Paul Guerlain, a master perfumer at IFF, views perfumery as a dance among raw materials, each contributing to a harmonious whole. Inspired by a nurturing childhood, he believes the beauty of any fragrance lies within the balance created through careful blending—moments of duality, tension, and harmony. This passion parallels Oman’s storied legacy of perfume-making, where the ancient tradition of using natural extracts remains vibrant.
Joining him, Julien Rasquinet, a prodigy of perfumery known for his bold touch, brings a rich narrative to their partnership. Trained under the legendary Pierre Bourdon, Julien’s creations reflect audacity and depth, enriched by experiences from both Paris and Dubai—culturally rich backgrounds that align perfectly with the collaboration at Amouage.
Their collaborative fragrance, Lustre, draws heavily on both perfumers' artistic visions and Oman’s cultural legacy—a country celebrated for its exquisite scents and time-honored techniques. The genesis of Lustre evolved from an extensive two-year dialogue between Guerlain and Rasquinet, focused on their shared admiration for exceptional quality sandalwood from New Caledonia. They aimed to magnify this sandalwood’s allure by integrating spices like cardamom and cinnamon and lush undertones of oryx and warm vanilla.
They innovatively infused sandalwood oil in oak barrels for six months—a technique that pays homage to traditional perfumery practices but is seldom utilized in modern fragrance-making. This meticulous maturation introduced unexpected surprises, enriching the final scent profile in elegant and complex ways. “This method allowed us to explore uncharted territories of scent, moving from the anticipated to the extraordinary,” Guerlain explains.
However, it’s not just the ingredients or techniques that drive their creations; they aspire to forge an emotional connection with the wearer. With Lustre, they envisioned a fragrance that embraces both special occasions and everyday elegance. “We hope that this scent becomes a beloved signature fragrance,” says Julien, inviting its wearer to cherish special memories with each experience of its rich, layered notes.
Harnessing their unique journeys, Paul and Julien illustrate how the discipline of scent-making transcends borders and cultures. By embracing Oman’s rich olfactory traditions while integrating innovative techniques, they cultivate a fragrant legacy that honors the past while embracing the future.
Lustre is not merely a fragrance; it is a testament to the careful harmonization of thoughtful artistry, cultural heritage, and the power of collaboration. Paul and Julien’s work embodies how perfumery can be a narrative—a narrative that speaks of Oman’s soul, its landscapes, and the deep-seated traditions that continue to inspire creators around the world.
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