One of my favourite canyons is Wadi Fins, which originates in the mountains near the village of Qarran. It flows downstream, passing in front of the impressive Al Tri resurgence that drains water from the four sinkholes of the Selma Plateau, and then meanders through the villages of Taab and Harima before emptying into the ocean near the village of Fins.
The journey begins along a trail leading to Al Tri Cave, where I first met my esteemed friend, Yusuf al Ghadani. This encounter occurred during my inaugural trip to the cave in 2001, accompanied by my climbing mentors, Patrick and Nathalie Cabiro, and an English journalist writing articles on extreme outdoor activities available in the Sultanate.
The trail presents breathtaking views of the canyon several hundred meters below and the coastline near Fins, some kilometres away. Along the path, one can find Zaatar (thyme), a delightful herb often consumed in infusion.
After approximately one hour of hiking, we encountered a tributary canyon that joins the main wadi. This section begins with a 30-meter abseil, revealing wooden sticks secured in rock crevices to serve as steps, a testament to the ingenuity of local residents in accessing a small hamlet nestled in the wadi below. This settlement, known as Mazraa, is situated on the left bank of the canyon and features empty terraces that, according to Yusuf, were historically utilized for wheat cultivation.
This area is magnificent, comprising numerous abseils ranging from a few meters to the longest at 30 meters. In certain locations, we established anchors for our ropes, while in others, we utilized natural anchors, such as rock threads or trees. It was here that I first encountered the remarkable black flower of the Dhagaa, a cactus reputed for its medicinal properties, as shared by local elders. If you ever come across a blooming Dhagaa, be sure to take a moment to appreciate its fragrance.
Upon reaching the main canyon, we performed a small abseil before tackling a magnificent dry waterfall, approximately 35 meters high, culminating in a vast cauldron roughly 40 meters in diameter. To escape this “pot trap” and continue downstream, I had to establish multiple anchors to ascend a wall approximately 12 meters tall. The subsequent section of the wadi remains predominantly dry, with only a few small ponds that we preferred to circumvent by climbing along the sides, as they often contain stagnant, unappealing water.
The most impressive segment of the journey occurs near the end, featuring a 50-meter traverse along a narrow ledge on the right bank. Here, we set up anchors for safety, as a slip could result in a fall of approximately 15 meters. Additionally, there are three more locations where we utilized ropes to abseil, culminating in a final descent of about 7 meters, adjacent to a spring emerging from the cliff. During our initial exploration of the canyon with Patrick and Nathalie, we were relieved to discover this spring, as we had nearly run out of water, risking dehydration. We affectionately named it “The Spring of Life.”
From this point, one must carefully descend a steep slope to reach the falaj of Taab, which channels water from the spring to nourish the beautiful terraces adorned with date palms, lime trees, banana, mango, papaya trees, and animal fodder. Following the falaj through the gardens for another 45 minutes leads to the village, where some rooms are almost embedded in the cliffs. Upon reaching the village, one may conclude their journey or opt to continue exploring further downstream.
It is important to note that embarking on adventures in canyons and outdoor settings can be exhilarating; however, it is essential to recognize that such activities can also pose significant risks, particularly when undertaken alone. To enhance safety, it is advisable to travel in groups whenever possible, as this provides both support and assistance in case of emergencies. Additionally, informing a friend or family member of your plans—including your intended route and expected return time—can be a critical safety measure.
Before setting out, it is vital to check weather conditions, as weather can change rapidly in outdoor environments. Equip yourself appropriately by wearing suitable clothing and footwear, and ensure you have the necessary gear, including a first aid kit, ample water, food, and navigation tools. Understanding your limits is also crucial; assess your skills and fitness level before attempting challenging routes, and be prepared to turn back if conditions become unfavourable.
Awareness of local wildlife is important, so familiarize yourself with the species you may encounter and learn the appropriate safety measures to minimize risks. Finally, practising Leave No Trace principles is essential for protecting the environment; respecting natural habitats by minimizing your impact, packing out trash, and preserving the area's beauty for future visitors. By adhering to these guidelines, you can help ensure a safer and more enjoyable outdoor experience.
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