Erin Coyle has called Sur home for six years, finding in it much more than just a brief stopover. As an English language instructor and freelance travel writer, she delves into the city’s hidden charms — from the quiet alleys of Al Ayjah to the warmth of the close-knit coastal community.
Her love for traditional wooden doors makes the neighbourhoods near the souq particularly special to her, where intricately designed wooden doors tell stories of the region’s heritage and artistry.
“Sur slows life down,” she says, capturing the essence of a place where the beach is a two-minute walk, and vibrant murals at the marina reflect the city’s rich history.
She is particularly fond of a mural painted by a father and daughter, depicting camels, palm trees, and a wooden arch at the souq entrance, which encapsulates the spirit of Sur each time she passes by. Beyond the bustling souq, known for its fragrant frankincense and intricate jewellery, Erin points out hidden gems like Tayma and Tahwa.
Tayma’s palm-lined farms and trails lead to a serene wadi pool, offering a peaceful escape, while Tahwa’s ancient ruins provide a scenic spot for picnics, blending history and nature. “These villages remind me that some of Oman’s most beautiful places remain tucked away, waiting to be discovered,” she shares.
Erin’s connection to Sur goes beyond its scenic charm. Her community involvement includes organising beach clean-ups, where she and fellow residents work together to keep the shoreline pristine. “We felt it was important to keep the beaches clean, so we started picking up trash weekly,” she explains.
The support from residents and the local municipality underscores the strong community spirit in Sur. Her volunteer efforts extend to teaching English, allowing her to engage deeply with local customs, from iftar gatherings during Ramadhan to traditional weddings.
Sur’s cultural pride shines during National Day celebrations, where students perform traditional dances, and local fairs showcase regional crafts and cuisine.
For Erin, these experiences have deepened her connection to the vibrant fabric of Sur’s society. The city has evolved over the years, notably with the opening of the Fatah Al Khair Centre, celebrating Sur’s shipbuilding heritage and traditional clothing. Nearby, the Dhow Factory’s gallery displays the craftsmanship that has shaped Sur for generations. Each morning, the arrival of freshly caught fish at the market reinforces the city’s enduring maritime legacy.
For visitors, Erin’s top recommendation is climbing the watchtower in Al Ayjah. From this vantage point, one can take in sweeping views of the marina, the suspension bridge, and the dhow factory — capturing the blend of tradition and progress that defines Sur. Exploring Al Ayjah, particularly around its picturesque lighthouse, offers a wonderful way to immerse oneself in the charm of the area. Erin finds herself drawn to the alleys lined with a mix of modern and traditional homes, but it’s the intricate wooden doors near the souq that truly captivate her, each a testament to Sur’s architectural legacy.
Through her writing, Erin hopes to bring Sur’s lesser-known treasures to light, encouraging travellers to linger a little longer and connect with the city’s deeper rhythms.
“There’s more to see here than just famous landmarks,” she emphasises, inviting others to discover the hidden beauty that makes Sur truly special.
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