The Sultanate of Oman, for many reasons, is recognised as the ‘Jewel of the Arabian Gulf. Probably the most appropriate are its golden sands and azure sea, which Lena and I still find the most delightful, and comforting, of environments.
Oh, don’t get me wrong, living in the Dakhilyah interior for 12 years was an absolute joy, but to be able to step away and enjoy, so often, within only a few hours, the splendour and solitude of the seaside, was the ‘icing on the cake,’ enabling us to appreciate the majesty of Al Jebel al Akdhar and Jebel Shams, through our shared experiences with the diversity of the Turtle Sanctuary at Ras al Jinz, Masirah Island, the Dhofari coastline, Sohar Beach, Shiya Beach, and our favourite, Ras al Ruways in South Sharqiyah.
I’ve lost count of the number of times we have visited the turtle sanctuary at Ras Al Jinz, and we are not the only ones. For tourists of course, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience, but we have been incredibly fortunate to have embraced the ‘turtle experience,’ at least twelve times, and probably closer to twenty. We have gone on our own, with friends, with visitors, at play, as part of our journalistic and photographic pursuits, and never had the same experience twice... and that’s why we keep going back. It is always remarkably evocative, whether it is the turtles, their eggs, the hatchlings, the seagulls, the foxes or wild dogs... Or the sand state, the sea state, the sunrise or sunset, or the Omani guides, who draw it all together. All these factors contribute to amazing natural and authentic experiences. What a shame it can’t be bottled and exported!
We’ve been to Masirah I think three times, always staying at the Masirah Island Resort, the perfect base for our fishing adventures. We have never caught any of the aquatic giants that Masirah boasts, but just fishing from the shore, we have been thoroughly captivated by the many varieties we have caught, and always taken home some beautiful fish for the table. Another memorable highlight of the island was discovering the multiplicity of its birdlife, which adds yet another layer of nature to its persistent calls upon us to return.
Visiting Salalah during the khareef is clearly a ‘rite of passage’ for all who live in Oman, and part of that rite is to be ‘dunked’ by the blowholes at Mughsail Beach. Reaching almost 30 metres in the air, the younger daredevils often tempt fate by challenging Mother Nature, but not me... getting wet is one thing, but getting injured, well, I’ll leave that to youth and impetuosity. We also found the seas tempestuous, rarely settled, and this probably explains why so many have perished at its hands, while on a less miserable note, the geological ‘digs’ north of the city are well worth a visit.
I recall Sohar Beach for very different reasons. We booked a stay at the Sohar Beach Hotel on New Years Eve of 2011/12, and enjoyed a wonderful, as usual for Oman, dinner buffet during the evening. During the buffet we won a ‘lucky draw’ among the diners, for a weekend stay at the hotel on a later weekend, so basically had a two-for-the-price-of-one stay. I also enjoyed, with my daughter Sasha, a ride on the beach, with horses provided by a local entrepreneur. On a beautiful sunny day, the pictures of Sasha and I riding on the beach, and in the sea’s shallows, will linger long among my memories.
Shiyaa Beach is one we have often fished, and we have shared coffee and dates with the local fishermen and caught some lovely sea bass. It was also there my good friend Vishal, and his wife Yasha, caught their very first fishes, and again, the delight on their faces was something else. Unbeatable for us though, is Ras Al Ruways, where we always stay at the nearby Al Asala Hotel, where the management and staff are incredibly courteous. We always catch fish, large and small, eat well, and love our own brand of days, and nights, at the beach.
Once again, this New Year, we will no doubt make more memories to savour, upon our return to Ras Al Ruways, and who knows... maybe we’ll see you there?
Oman Observer is now on the WhatsApp channel. Click here
