Monday, December 02, 2024 | Jumada al-ula 29, 1446 H
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EDITOR IN CHIEF- ABDULLAH BIN SALIM AL SHUEILI

From Musandam to the rooftop of Africa

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In Swahili, ‘Pole Pole’ means ‘slowly, slowly’. It is a phrase every climber on Mount Kilimanjaro becomes intimately familiar with. This simple yet profound philosophy guided me on my seven-day journey from rugged terrain of Musandam, Oman, to the peak of Africa’s highest mountain.


As a solo female Omani traveler, this adventure was not just about reaching the top, but also about preparation, determination and experiencing the beauty of the world.


Preparations in Musandam


Moving to Musandam last February for work, I found myself surrounded by its rugged beauty and unique landscapes. This region became my training ground, preparing me for the arduous climb ahead. The best training for me was climbing the zigzagging mountain staircase located in Khor Sham. For three months, I took a local boat from Khasab Port to Khor Sham, where I would tackle over 1,000 steps multiple times a week, with temperatures reaching 40 degree Celcius. This rigorous routine built the strength and endurance I needed for Kilimanjaro. The steep and rocky terrain of Musandam mirrored many of the challenges I would later face on Kilimanjaro. The strenuous climbs in Musnadam toughened my legs and lungs, making me resilient and prepared for the trek.


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‘Mountain staircase’


The mountain staircase is located between Khor Sham and Khor Najd, linking the Arabian Gulf and the Sea of Oman. It was created with the aim of allowing visitors to enjoy a hiking experience that extends over approximately a thousand steps. The stairs were constructed using materials from nature, as mountain rocks were used in construction. From the top of the summit, where comfortable seating is available, one can see both sides of the seas, offering a majestic panoramic view from a height of 420 meters where the sea and the mountains blend. The staircase is illuminated at night with lights powered by solar panels, and protective barriers made of wood and ropes were placed along the walkway.


Learning from others


In addition to my physical training, I also prepared by watching numerous videos from different bloggers who had climbed Kilimanjaro. For over four months, I immersed myself in these videos, learning from the experiences of those who had succeeded and failed. Despite this extensive preparation, I quickly realised that nothing can truly capture the experience until you live it yourself.


The journey begins


When I arrived in Tanzania, the adventure truly began. At the airport, the driver from the tour company greeted me warmly and emphasised the importance of a positive mindset for summiting Kilimanjaro, despite never having climbed himself. His words resonated as I began my journey. At the hotel, I met my guide, William, who asked if I needed to rent any equipment. I had everything except a jacket, poles, and a sleeping bag, which were crucial for the cold nights ahead. William's experience and knowledge were invaluable as we began our ascent.


The Climb


The ascent commenced through dense forests and rugged terrain, each step bringing me closer to the summit. Navigating changing landscapes and challenging altitudes, I encountered moments of fatigue and uncertainty. Each day presented new challenges, but the support from William, the porters, and the chef made all the difference. The porters carried heavy loads, setting up camps and preparing meals. The food was simple but nourishing: soups, pasta, rice, and fresh fruits and vegetables, which kept us fuelled for the strenuous days ahead.


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Summit Night


Summit night was the most challenging part of the climb. Despite all my preparation, nothing could have fully prepared me for the altitude sickness I experienced. I couldn't sleep and suffered from headaches, nausea, and shortness of breath. At around 11 pm, the team provided me with biscuits and tea, but I was too sick to eat. I layered up with four layers of pants and seven layers on top to brace against the cold.


As we climbed, the night was lit by the headlamps of countless climbers, all striving for the same goal: the Uhuru Peak. People sang to keep their spirits up, and guides encouraged their teams to keep moving. It was a surreal and awe-inspiring experience.


Nearing the summit


During the climb, my guide William often asked, "What is your name?" to check if I was okay. Although I was very sick from the altitude, I smiled and answered, "My name is William, today!" which was his name. This moment of humor helped keep our spirits high. William’s encouragement and support was invaluable, especially during breaks to catch my breath and replenish with hot water amidst frozen water bottles.


As I neared Stella Point (5,756m), just before Uhuru Peak, one of the guides spoke to William in Swahili, asking if I was okay. He then came to me and said, "Imagine climbing Kilimanjaro as eating an elephant, and you’ve finished the whole elephant. All you have left is the tail." This motivating message gave me the push I needed, even though I was struggling to concentrate because of the altitude sickness.


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Reaching the summit


Despite the physical and mental challenges, I finally reached the summit. The views of the glaciers were breathtaking, and the view of Kenya from the peak was a sight I will never forget. The sense of accomplishment was overwhelming, knowing that I had pushed myself to my limits and succeeded.


After celebrating at the summit, we began our descent, feeling proud and exhausted.


Reflection


Looking back, the rigorous terrain in Musandam played a crucial role in my preparation for Kilimanjaro. The beauty and challenges of Musandam not only helped me physically but also mentally prepared me for the journey. This adventure taught me the importance of perseverance, the power of a positive mindset, and the strength we all have within us to overcome obstacles. By sharing my story, I hope to inspire others to pursue their dreams, no matter how daunting they may seem.


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