Designers brought a bit of theater to New York Bridal Fashion Week, which was held earleir this month and showcased their spring and summer 2025 collections.
Justin Alexander kicked things off with an interactive collaboration with street artist Gioele Corradengo, known as Sexsdreams. Attendees at his show spray-painted a wedding dress, creating their own work of art. And Cinq unveiled its new collection with a candlelit dinner-style presentation that was part Shakespearean drama, part Hitchcock film.
One of the week’s highlights was a marriage proposal by model Erica Honing’s boyfriend during Galia Lahav’s presentation.
There were bridal brand debuts from designers Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Courte Collection and Nordeen, as well as the return of Odylyne the Ceremony to Bridal Fashion Week after a brief absence. Also, Claire Pettibone revealed her much-awaited East Coast flagship boutique in midtown Manhattan.
On the runways and during presentations, many designers opted for nontraditional and more versatile looks. As Brenna Simmons, the founder and creative director of Nordeen, explained, those looks included styles “in the form of color, separates or convertible pieces that can be styled multiple ways. Or even as simple as the exploration of new types of silhouettes that aren’t necessarily your typical wedding gown.”
Here are some highlights of what we saw.
Dropped Waists
The dropped waist was one of the hottest looks on the bridal runway, shown in different renditions from ruched tulle and draped satin ballgowns from Chosen by KYHA, to a clean-lined strapless gown with an adjustable-bow back from Courte Collection. Anne Barge debuted a shimmery, embroidered drop-waist A-line dress. And Monique Lhuillier Bliss showed a luxurious drop-waist lace gown with an inverted-pleat skirt. Ines Di Santo opened her show with a beaded drop-waist ballgown accented by a dramatic tulle skirt.
Mixed Fabrics
"Mixed fabrics are a prominent trend this season as brides request more custom or one-of-a-kind pieces,” said Sarah Swann, the chief creative officer at Amsale. “This look adds individuality, allowing brides to showcase their own sense of style.”
Amsale showed the perfect example of mixing fabrics and layers in one bridal look by pairing a tailored duchess-satin bodice with a lace top and a soft tulle skirt. Nadia Manjarrez’s collection featured a drop-waist gown with a waffle-weave bodice and full tulle skirt. And Andrew Kwon presented a beaded minidress that can be worn alone or layered with a feather-embellished, floor-length tulle underskirt.
Basque Waists
With the continued popularity of period dramas like “Bridgerton” and “The Great,” it’s not surprising that designers are inspired by 18th- and 19th-century fashion.
Basque waists, which sit slightly lower on the natural waistline and end in a V-shape point, create volume at the hips that is a little bit Marie Antoinette and very fashion forward. This look was done in various ways throughout different collections. A strapless midi-dress debuted by Balykina featured a seamed, elongated bodice that complemented its bubble skirt. Cinq’s collection included a strapless A-line gown of cotton lace and crinkled silk tulle. And Lihi Hod used regal lace for a strapless ballgown with a structured waist and full skirt.
Trompe L’oeil Bra Necklines
A bra peeking out from under a tank top or slip dress was a late-1990s and early 2000s trend that has recently resurfaced in celebrity street style and red carpet photos, so of course it has made its way to bridal in a chic way.
This look gives the illusion of a lace or satin bra peeking out of a gown’s neckline. Wonà Concept debuted an A-line gown with a pleated skirt and corset bodice detailed with a satin, bralike neckline. And Nardos showed an elegant, hand-draped silk Mikado dress with a corset bodice peeking out from underneath. Eva Lendel’s new collection featured a column dress with a corseted bodice and a detachable peekaboo lace neckline. — NYT
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