An oasis amid the arid Al Hajar Mountains was a sight to behold. The ancient town of Al Hamra in Al Dakhiliyah Governorate was home to extraordinary ruins, mud-brick houses, and a large plantation of date palm trees. Because we reached the green haven from the new quarter of the town, we got to see a spectacular view and escape the scorching heat. Large crowns of graceful pinnate leaves shielded us from the sunlight. Instead of taking the direct path through the plantation, we followed the falaj (irrigation channels). As a result, the large oasis turned into a maze with new discoveries at every turn. Some old light brown houses were well-preserved or renovated, while others were in ruins.
The sign of Bait Al Safah led us to an open engraved wooden door. Little did we know that behind the door was the whole world of Omani traditions. A young man dressed in a dishdasha and kummah sat behind the desk in the dimly lit room with a high ceiling and mud walls. After giving us our tickets (RO 1 for Omanis and RO 3 for Non-Omanis), Marwan showed us around the ground floor which consisted of two rooms. The space was mainly used for storage and making date syrup. Marwan offered us some syrup, and the thick brown nectar tasted sweet and pleasant and reminded me slightly of plum jam.
The heart of every home was a kitchen, and this living museum was no exception. In fact, the kitchen area was a live demonstration of many Omani traditions. With the help of other women, Fatma, our charismatic guide, explained each step in English. First, she roasted a handful of Yemeni coffee beans on a gas stove, and within minutes a familiar delicious aroma filled the room. After that, she showed us how grain was ground into flour. An older woman dressed in bright traditional clothes then expertly used the sticky dough to make paper-thin bread. Made with just flour, water and salt, the lace-like bread was deeply flavourful. As we moved on to beauty tips, we saw how moringa oil was extracted from the seeds and was used for a radiant complexion. The final demonstration involved making a bright yellow-orange paste with saffron and sandalwood for glowing, healthy skin.
Next, we entered the Majlis, which was airy and bright with many small windows. The Majlis was a sitting room covered with oriental carpets and dozens of pillows where visitors could sit down and enjoy some coffee. In any house, it wasn’t just a place for social gatherings and receiving guests, but also for discussing local events and news, solving problems, etc. Aside from Omani coffee and sweet Khalas dates, we could also enjoy some tea there. Dates were typically eaten in odd numbers, such as three, five, or seven. In the past, a farmer would eat 11 or 13 dates for breakfast to have the energy to work all day.
A changing room was another unique feature of the museum, where men and women could dress up in traditional Omani clothing. My favourite attire was a long purple knee-length embroidered tunic, loose-fitting trousers, and a matching chiffon scarf. Other rooms were filled with various old objects, such as books, spoons and jewellery, collected from neighbouring abandoned houses.
At the end of the tour, visitors could go to the rooftop where the family used to sleep in summer. Since the museum offered an experience like no other, it was buzzing with tourists, and multiple languages could be heard: Italian, German, French and Serbian. More than 100 visitors came on weekends and about 60 on weekdays during the winter season.
Apart from Bait Al Safah, there were other renovated buildings on the same street, including two small hotels. Walking through the ruins, I wondered what life was like when those houses were built hundreds of years ago. Several men sat and chatted under the palm trees while a flock of sheep was grazing on lime-green grass. I noticed that the farm ground was divided into lots: some were bigger, while others just had one tree. As in the morning, the area was quiet. It was a true oasis of peace and fertile land.
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