A golden-domed, syrupy-centered fruit pie may be the ideal dessert to serve at a summer gathering. But for eating out of hand, say, at a Labor Day cookout or picnic, a pie bar is superior.
Pies are a pleasure to eat but can be awkward to serve, especially when their insides are a little runny with fruit (which is exactly how I like them). You’ll need a pie server or a large spoon to transport the dripping slices, plates to put them on, and forks to eat it all with. And, to feed more than a handful of guests, at least two or three pies are required.
Pie bars offer most of the same delights as pie but make your life a lot easier. You can prepare them entirely in advance (even days ahead), then slice and plop them on a platter like cookies. Guests can grab one and nibble it standing up, pie bar in one hand, refreshing summer beverage in the other. One recipe serves a crowd.
Think of it this way: A pie bar is to a pie as a burger is to a big beefy steak. Each has its best time and place to be enjoyed.
Any pie can become a pie bar with a few tweaks. The biggest concern is the crust. For a pie bar, the crust needs to be firm enough to hold together, even when topped with loads of ripe and juicy fruit.
I like a shortbread crust, which is sturdy yet buttery, and extremely easy to make, especially if you’re using a food processor. (You can also use your fingers (or a fork) to pinch the butter into the flour mixture.) Another excellent choice is a graham cracker (or gingersnap) crust, which works particularly well with creamy fillings.
Pre-baking is essential for both kinds of crusts, as it gets them crisp and helps keep them that way, despite the moist fillings on top. Let the crusts bake a few minutes longer than you might think necessary. With pale shortbread crusts, you’ll be able to see golden edges, but because graham crackers are already dark brown, a crust made from them is harder to gauge. The color will deepen ever so slightly, so keep an eye on it. But I go by scent. When it’s ready, the kitchen should smell like you’re baking cookies.
When it comes to the toppings, in summer, use fresh fruit. My raspberry crumble bars are like a raspberry pie with a crumb topping, but with a thicker crust and a higher ratio of brown sugar crumbs to fresh berries. (In winter, frozen berries work beautifully, too.)
Sliced peaches, simmered for a few minutes to condense their juices, star in a peaches and cream bar recipe that’s a little like cheesecake, but heavy on the fruit. A touch of grated lemon zest in the cream cheese layer adds just the right tang to balance the sweetness.
And finally, for something you can — and should — make year-round, I turned a classic Southern-style coconut pie into a wonderfully chewy bar cookie. The chocolate chips are optional, but they add a bittersweet flavor that tones down all that sugary coconut, especially if you use chocolate with a high cacao percentage (70% to 80%). Or, for something crunchier, use chopped pecans instead of chocolate. (These bars are also wonderful plain.)
All of these recipes can be made a few days in advance and stored in the fridge. Because after all, on Labor Day, why should anyone have to work?
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RECIPES:
Raspberry Pie Crunch Bars
By Melissa Clark
Yield: 24 squares
Total time: 1 1/2 hours
For the Crust:
Unsalted butter, at room temperature, for greasing the pan
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 cup (226 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch chunks
For the Crumb Topping:
1 1/3 cups (167 grams) all-purpose flour
2/3 cups (60 grams) rolled oats
1/2 cup (107 grams) dark brown sugar
1/2 cup (58 grams) coarsely chopped pecans, walnuts or almonds
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted
For the Filling:
5 cups (about 710 grams) raspberries, fresh or frozen (no need to thaw them)
1/4 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
Pinch of kosher salt
1/3 cup (110 grams) raspberry jam
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, and line with parchment paper so that there is a 2-inch overhang on the two long sides.
2. In a food processor, pulse together flour, sugar and salt. Add butter and pulse to fine crumbs. Pulse a few more times until some of the crumbs start to come together, but don’t over-process; the dough should be somewhat crumbly. (You can also mix the dough in a bowl using two knives or a pastry cutter.)
3. Press dough into an even layer in the prepared pan. Prick dough all over with a fork. Bake until golden, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer to a rack. You can bake the crust up to 6 hours ahead, or use it while it’s still hot.
4. To prepare the filling, in a mixing bowl, gently toss together raspberries, sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice and zest, and salt. Wipe out the bowl.
5. While the crust is baking, make the crumb topping: In the same mixing bowl, whisk together flour, oats, brown sugar, pecans, nutmeg and salt. Stir in melted butter, pinching the mixture with your fingers, to make 1/2-inch crumbs.
6. Using the back of a spoon, an offset spatula or a pastry brush, spread jam in an even layer on top of the crust, going all the way to the edges. Evenly spread raspberry mixture on top of jam. Sprinkle the crumb topping over the raspberry layer, keeping some larger clumps.
7. Bake until the topping is golden brown and the filling is slightly bubbling along the sides, 35 to 45 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.
8. To serve, use a sharp knife to release edges. Using parchment overhang, lift and transfer to a cutting board and cut into 24 squares.
Coconut Pie Bars
By Melissa Clark
Yield: 12 bars
Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus 2 hours’ chilling
For the Crust:
Unsalted butter, at room temperature, for greasing the pan
1 1/2 cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoon (25 grams) sugar
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
3/4 cup (170 grams) unsalted butter
For the Filling:
3 large eggs
1 1/3 cups (267 grams) sugar
1/2 cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/2 cup (118 milliliters) unsweetened coconut milk or whole milk
2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar or 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest (optional)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 packed cup (100 grams) shredded sweetened coconut
1/3 cup (54 grams) bittersweet chocolate chips, preferably 72% to 80% cacao (optional)
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch square pan and line with parchment, leaving some overhanging.
2. In a food processor, pulse together flour, sugar and salt. Pulse in butter until crumbs form and the dough starts to come together. Press mixture into the prepared pan in an even layer. Bake until firm on top and lightly golden at the edges, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer to a rack. You can bake the crust up to 6 hours ahead, or use it while it’s still hot.
3. While the crust bakes, using the same food processor (no need to wash it out first), pulse together eggs, sugar, butter, coconut milk, vinegar or lemon juice, lemon zest (if using), vanilla and salt until well combined. Pulse in the coconut.
4. When the crust is baked, pour in the filling (crust can still be hot). Lower oven temperature to 325 degrees and bake until the filling is set when you jiggle it and the top is browned, 30 to 40 minutes.
5. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, then chill for at least 2 hours. Cut into bars and serve.
Creamy Peach Pie Bars
By Melissa Clark
Yield: 24 bars
Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus 2 hours’ chilling
For the Crust:
1 1/2 cups (210 grams) graham cracker crumbs (cinnamon flavor or regular)
1/3 cup (48 grams) pecans
6 tablespoons (85 grams) butter, melted and cooled
Pinch of salt
For the Filling:
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese (1 pound / 454 grams), softened
3/4 cup (180 grams) heavy cream, at room temperature
1/2 cup (100 grams) sugar, plus more as needed
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon or lime zest
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
3 cups (20 ounces) sliced peaches, peeled or unpeeled as desired (3 to 4 peaches)
2 teaspoons fresh lemon or lime juice
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, and line with parchment paper so that there is a 2-inch overhang on the two long sides.
2. Prepare the crust: In a food processor, pulse together graham crackers, pecans, butter and salt until the mixture feels damp and sandy. Pour into the prepared pan and press it down into an even layer.
3. Bake until firm and slightly darker in color, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer to a rack and reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees. You can bake the crust up to 6 hours ahead, or use it while it’s still hot.
4. Make the filling: Wipe out the food processor, then add cream cheese, cream and 1/2 cup sugar, and process until very smooth. Add eggs, lemon zest, vanilla and salt, and process until well combined. Pour the cream cheese mixture onto the crust.
5. Put the peaches into a medium pot and taste one. If it’s very sweet, add 1 tablespoon sugar. If it’s on the tart side, add 2 tablespoons sugar. Add lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring once or twice, until the sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Spoon peaches and their liquid gently over the cream filling.
6. Bake until set and firm, 40 to 50 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, then chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours before cutting and serving. Bars can be made up to 1 day in advance, and will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for a few days. Serve directly from the fridge. — NYT
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