The preserved legacy of Bahla's Friday market

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Pictures by Abhilash Pillai

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Souqs are most lively and best visited on Fridays and Bahla souq, despite its prestigious inclusion in the Unesco World Heritage sites list, is no different.

On Fridays, these centres of activities for almost all wilayats burst into life as people come to access things they needed from home. But other than the shopping part of the experience, it is also an opportunity that many Omanis take to meet with each other and catch up with their lives thus making it the best place to observe culture, heritage and traditions.

Bhala is situated in Al Dhakhiliyah, approximately 200 km away from Muscat. The best time to come is at 6 am when activities start to pick up in full force.

In a recent visit, Badar Harib Ghalib Al Shukaili, the CEO of the Bahla Heritage Souq, was kind enough to explain the importance of the souq in their daily lives even in today’s modern era. He pointed out, in the past, the location of the souq is very strategic which is why we normally see it beside forts.

Badar explained that the army used to gather intel at the souq as it is the best place where people talk about everything in their lives. He said that whatever information is gathered in these events are then used in the overall welfare and protection of the country.

While giant supermarkets and malls have risen all over Oman, the traditional souqs remain to be the largest e-commerce destination for many Omanis and usually the preferred choice for buying groceries and household items. This preference is prodded by the fact that villagers trust their sellers and they know that most of the items are sold directly from farms and are therefore fresh and price-wise, definitely are pocket—friendly.

Many buyers are also of the impression that honeys and spices bought from the souqs are more authentic and reliable.

If you haven't been to Bahla souq yet, its wide-open wooden door and subtle mud-finished walls will definitely make you take notice. Bahla souq is one of the most well-planned and properly segregated souqs where every item has its own sections most especially for products like vegetables, spices, cafes, potteries, tailoring, clothing and accessories like kummah and khanjar.

Just like most sous, it is not uncommon to see elderly gentlemen enjoying a cup of kahwa under a tree while shop owners are busy doing sales talk with their customers and in the background, kids running around fascinated by all the commotions.

While exploring the busy Bahla souq during our visit, my attention was grabbed by an antique shop that is filled with numerous items some of them around 400 to 50 years old.

It was pure luck to meet owner Harib Gharib Hamdan Al-Shukaili who is also the Chairman of the Bahla Souq Company.

Harib explained that to him, it wasn't merely a shop of old things but a mini-museum that allows his buyers to go back in time and in some form, his way of preserving the traditions of Oman.

Harib explained that there were times he organized auctions selling some interesting items to collectors and even at one point, has sold an item for around OMR 5000 because of the quality and history of the piece.

Harib explained that collecting old items and trinkets has been his passion since he was younger. From the shop's humble beginning, it has grown extensively over the year and has become more comprehensive you can almost anything you want within his store.

Overall, Harib explained that the majority of the items in his shop are recorded in his journal and estimated that he has over 10,000 items all in all inside the store, his collection an eclectic mix of swords & Khanjars, jewellery, showpieces and old household items.

Harib also collected very old television sets, radios, old cellular phones which usually prompt nostalgia just by seeing them.

A few metres away from the souq one will find the livestock auction centre. Bahla souq's space for livestock is smaller if compared to the famous Nizwa market but it is filled with life all the same.

Harib said that other than the typical Friday souq, the management of the souq and the surrounding residents organize various cultural activities in association with the Ministry of Religion to entertain the locals as well as the tourists.

A cute Instagrammable café “Kadam” located inside the souq adds a lot of value to this place and it makes the place very upmarket. What is different about this cafe is that the dining experience ca be quite experimental as they have rooms inspired by the cultures of the Arabs, Greek, and so many others.

According to Harib, there are more activities coming to Bahla souq but just like other modern developments happening all over the place, the government for sure will look into sustainable development.

It was great to witness the two oldest trees inside the souqs which were 300 and 500 years old. Personally, I think this souq is worth the drive and visit

This is a place where modernization took place holding its hand and keeping alive the history. It was worth the drive to visit this souq early Friday morning.