From Penang to Muscat: A blueprint on how to globalize local flavours
Published: 03:09 PM,Sep 12,2024 | EDITED : 07:09 PM,Sep 12,2024
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His journey makes for a good book. Born and raised in Penang, Malaysia, his earliest food memories are those of his mother’s cooking—an experience that laid the foundation for his love of food.
At the age of 13, he took his first steps into the professional kitchen, working part-time at a local hawker stall. The stall specialized in Western fare, and this early exposure to the rigours of cooking, combined with his mother’s influence, ignited a deeper interest in the culinary arts. He learned the ropes of the kitchen from the ground up, mastering skills alongside seasoned chefs from Malaysia and Hong Kong.
By the age of 18, he had set his sights beyond Penang. Fueled by a passion for both travel and food, he seized an opportunity to work abroad, starting in Hong Kong, where his brother-in-law, a dim sum chef, guided his early career. This marked the beginning of his culinary adventure, which took him across Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand, and Hong Kong. Along the way, he worked in a variety of establishments, including Star Cruises, Asia-Pacific's largest cruise line, where he further honed his skills and deepened his understanding of Asian cuisine.
These experiences across diverse culinary landscapes gave him a comprehensive grasp of Asian food, from its rich flavours to the nuances of different regional diets. His exposure to various Asian cultures allowed him to understand the importance of seasonal ingredients, traditional recipes, and the medicinal properties inherent in many Asian dishes—knowledge that would become pivotal in his later work.
In 2011, his fascination with the Middle East led him to Dubai, where he joined Hakkasan, a modern Chinese restaurant known for its fusion of tradition and innovation. Over the next few years, he rose through the ranks, eventually becoming Executive Chef in 2016. Under his leadership, Hakkasan Dubai earned its first Michelin star in the inaugural edition of its Guide Dubai in 2022—a crowning achievement that solidified his reputation as one of the region’s top chefs.
Stirring the pot in Muscat
With a star under his belt, Chef Andy Toh has gotten used to a jetsetting lifestyle. He's been to Oman before on a whirlwind trip that his wife arranged together with his sons. It was a challenging trip having to line up at the border because it was a holiday, and what was supposed to be a one-day trip resulted in an extended stay. He and his family managed to squeeze in some sights in Muscat, and on that quick trip, he realised that Oman is in a different league of its own — not pressured by the overwhelming growth around it and putting a lot of care and emphasis on its culture and tradition.
His second visit was as dizzying. Fresh from the airport, he was whisked away to meetings after meetings. He was used to it he said.
His stopover in Muscat is a crucial one — he and his team were bringing their renowned brand to Oman, and with high anticipation from the market, every step is crucial.
'In Oman, my focus is on highlighting the beauty and quality of the local products. For example, Omani lobster and locally sourced prawns are ingredients I aim to incorporate into the menu. There is a strong emphasis on localization, and we always strive to use the finest local products, which Oman offers in abundance,' he shared.
'Oman’s culture, history, and cuisine reflect a blend of Western and Eastern influences, aligning perfectly with the essence of the brand. Our goal is to create an unforgettable dining experience that captures this unique fusion for our guests,' he added.
'Most of my cooking is personal and this is where I learned the importance of localisation. Personally, I incorporate familial recipes into my own creations, adding a personal touch to every dish. My signature sauces are a tribute to my childhood. It brings a sense of nostalgia, blending traditional flavours with modern techniques,' he shared.
Chef Andy believed that Oman offers a unique opportunity for culinary innovation. By incorporating local elements into the menu, he not only showcases the country’s natural wealth but also creates dishes that resonate with the local palate.
This localization is more than just a nod to Omani produce; it is a strategic move that highlights the potential for Omani cuisine to gain international acclaim. Chef Andy’s approach to blending Eastern and Western influences mirrors the cultural fusion found in Oman, making his dishes both accessible and unique. His experience working in different regions, from Abu Dhabi to London, shows that culinary excellence can travel, and with it, the flavours of Oman.
For Oman to be recognized on the global culinary stage, chefs like Chef Andy offer a blueprint. His dedication to local ingredients and his ability to balance tradition with innovation serve as a model for how Omani cuisine can evolve while maintaining its roots. By working with local producers and adapting dishes to local tastes, he provides a pathway for other chefs in the region to follow, ensuring that Oman’s culinary identity is not only preserved but celebrated worldwide.
'I’m truly excited to be here. This is my second visit to Oman, and I believe we are bringing something truly unique to the market. I warmly invite the people of Oman to visit Hakkasan and experience it for themselves. Our goal is to create an unforgettable dining experience. I’m confident that once guests experience what we have to offer, they will want to return,' he said.
At the age of 13, he took his first steps into the professional kitchen, working part-time at a local hawker stall. The stall specialized in Western fare, and this early exposure to the rigours of cooking, combined with his mother’s influence, ignited a deeper interest in the culinary arts. He learned the ropes of the kitchen from the ground up, mastering skills alongside seasoned chefs from Malaysia and Hong Kong.
By the age of 18, he had set his sights beyond Penang. Fueled by a passion for both travel and food, he seized an opportunity to work abroad, starting in Hong Kong, where his brother-in-law, a dim sum chef, guided his early career. This marked the beginning of his culinary adventure, which took him across Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand, and Hong Kong. Along the way, he worked in a variety of establishments, including Star Cruises, Asia-Pacific's largest cruise line, where he further honed his skills and deepened his understanding of Asian cuisine.
These experiences across diverse culinary landscapes gave him a comprehensive grasp of Asian food, from its rich flavours to the nuances of different regional diets. His exposure to various Asian cultures allowed him to understand the importance of seasonal ingredients, traditional recipes, and the medicinal properties inherent in many Asian dishes—knowledge that would become pivotal in his later work.
In 2011, his fascination with the Middle East led him to Dubai, where he joined Hakkasan, a modern Chinese restaurant known for its fusion of tradition and innovation. Over the next few years, he rose through the ranks, eventually becoming Executive Chef in 2016. Under his leadership, Hakkasan Dubai earned its first Michelin star in the inaugural edition of its Guide Dubai in 2022—a crowning achievement that solidified his reputation as one of the region’s top chefs.
Stirring the pot in Muscat
With a star under his belt, Chef Andy Toh has gotten used to a jetsetting lifestyle. He's been to Oman before on a whirlwind trip that his wife arranged together with his sons. It was a challenging trip having to line up at the border because it was a holiday, and what was supposed to be a one-day trip resulted in an extended stay. He and his family managed to squeeze in some sights in Muscat, and on that quick trip, he realised that Oman is in a different league of its own — not pressured by the overwhelming growth around it and putting a lot of care and emphasis on its culture and tradition.
His second visit was as dizzying. Fresh from the airport, he was whisked away to meetings after meetings. He was used to it he said.
His stopover in Muscat is a crucial one — he and his team were bringing their renowned brand to Oman, and with high anticipation from the market, every step is crucial.
'In Oman, my focus is on highlighting the beauty and quality of the local products. For example, Omani lobster and locally sourced prawns are ingredients I aim to incorporate into the menu. There is a strong emphasis on localization, and we always strive to use the finest local products, which Oman offers in abundance,' he shared.
'Oman’s culture, history, and cuisine reflect a blend of Western and Eastern influences, aligning perfectly with the essence of the brand. Our goal is to create an unforgettable dining experience that captures this unique fusion for our guests,' he added.
'Most of my cooking is personal and this is where I learned the importance of localisation. Personally, I incorporate familial recipes into my own creations, adding a personal touch to every dish. My signature sauces are a tribute to my childhood. It brings a sense of nostalgia, blending traditional flavours with modern techniques,' he shared.
Chef Andy believed that Oman offers a unique opportunity for culinary innovation. By incorporating local elements into the menu, he not only showcases the country’s natural wealth but also creates dishes that resonate with the local palate.
This localization is more than just a nod to Omani produce; it is a strategic move that highlights the potential for Omani cuisine to gain international acclaim. Chef Andy’s approach to blending Eastern and Western influences mirrors the cultural fusion found in Oman, making his dishes both accessible and unique. His experience working in different regions, from Abu Dhabi to London, shows that culinary excellence can travel, and with it, the flavours of Oman.
For Oman to be recognized on the global culinary stage, chefs like Chef Andy offer a blueprint. His dedication to local ingredients and his ability to balance tradition with innovation serve as a model for how Omani cuisine can evolve while maintaining its roots. By working with local producers and adapting dishes to local tastes, he provides a pathway for other chefs in the region to follow, ensuring that Oman’s culinary identity is not only preserved but celebrated worldwide.
'I’m truly excited to be here. This is my second visit to Oman, and I believe we are bringing something truly unique to the market. I warmly invite the people of Oman to visit Hakkasan and experience it for themselves. Our goal is to create an unforgettable dining experience. I’m confident that once guests experience what we have to offer, they will want to return,' he said.