MILAN: Colour is the answer in times of sadness and austerity, according to Italian designer Giorgio Armani who was showcasing his spring summer 2018 collection at Milan Fashion Week on Friday. “I do not see why I have to dwell on sadness, making women even sadder... I answer with colours in a time of sadness,” the 83-year-old designer said. He added that the inspiration for the clothes did not come from a specific art movement or period but was more about “different strokes of colour”.The collection drew together most of Armani’s characteristic traits: Crisp cuts, asymmetrical lines, bright colours side by side with black and strong geometric patterns. But unlike past designs, Armani used a palette of pastel colours, with many of his creations in light blues, pinks and pale aquamarine.
Models wore chiffon flower-patterned skirts with elaborate tops, silk ankle-high trousers in vivid hues were matched with long coats with ginkgo leaf designs and sleek black short coats sat over graphic patterned tops. Most of the looks were embellished with colourful geometric plexiglass earrings, some with big collars made of bright pieces of fabric styled as eclectic scarves.
Colours only briefly disappeared for some styles in grey and silver and then beige, for both man and woman, while evening wear creations were dominated by black.
Many of the models wore long mesh veils, some dotted with small coloured pom-poms.
Armani explained that the veils were used to convey mystery and that his idea of a typical evening was “not too important but still precious... like an elegant cocktail”.
As ever, the show concluded with the designer emerging briefly from backstage in his trademark work clothes of long-sleeved top and high-tech sweatpants to acknowledge the audience’s applause.
With his deep tan, scrupulously tended head of white hair and a silhouette honed by daily workouts, Armani could easily pass for a much younger man.
The show comes just two months after the Armani group announced it would reorganise its brands, concentrating on three core labels and trimming its network of boutiques.
The change-up was announced in July when Armani confirmed its sales had fallen five per cent in the previous year. Brands like Prada have struggled to find their mojo after revenues across the luxury world were hurt by a slowdown in Asia and currency volatility. — Agencies
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